Is it possible to put two "Zhiguli" carburetors or one K-151 on the ZAZ-965 (ZAZ-968) engine to increase power? How else can you increase the power of the “humpback” motor?

Vadim Chutur, Korostyshev

Two carburetors for a 23-horsepower MeMZ-965 engine (27 hp - MeMZ-966; 30 hp - MeMZ-966A) cannot be installed without altering the intake manifold. Moreover, it is pointless to do this, since the desired increase in power cannot be obtained due to a significant decrease in the speed of the intake air flow in the diffusers of the two carburetors. Mixing will be of poor quality, and instead of the expected improvements, only new problems will arise. For the same reasons, the engine will not become more powerful even after the installation of the Volgovsky K-151 carburetor. After all, it is of little use for forcing, i.e. it is almost impossible to increase the power. It will only be possible to increase the compression ratio by reducing the volume of the combustion chamber. To do this, it is necessary to machine the lower seating surface of the cylinders to a depth of 1-1.5 mm. This “extra” layer of metal should be removed in stages - 0.5 mm each, checking after each pass if there is any contact between the piston and the cylinder head. After such modernization, you will have to switch to high-octane gasoline - A-92, A-95. As a result of the alterations, the already small resource of the “humpbacked” motor will decrease in general to 20-30 thousand km.

It is easiest to change the "native" Zaporozhets carburetor to the two-chamber "Zhiguli" DAAZ on more powerful MeMZ-968GE (45 hp) and MeMZ-968BE (50 hp) engines with an increased compression ratio (8.4 instead of 7.2) for AI-93 gasoline. A distinctive feature of these engines is the presence of a two-chamber Ozone carburetor (DAAZ-2101-20) and a modified manifold with a landing pad for this element of the power system. Although I note that it is not advisable to change the DAAZ-2101-20 to the “Zhiguli” modification of the “Ozone”, since it is unlikely that it will be possible to “squeeze out” more power (45 and 50 hp) from the engine.

It is quite difficult to get an increase in strength by installing the Zhiguli Ozone on the “native” Zaporozhets collector, although it is possible if you correctly approach the selection of jets using the calibration data of the DAAZ-2101-20 model (see table). It is very difficult to find a rare DAAZ-2101-20 for installation, and even with a collector for it. The best option is to install a DAAZ-2105 carburetor. Fuel consumption with such a modernization is unlikely to decrease, but power will increase, engine acceleration and starting characteristics will improve in the cold season. To install the Zhiguli carburetor on the MeMZ-968 manifold, you will have to make an adapter (see Fig.), which will ensure that the Ozone turns 900. With this installation scheme, it is easier to adjust the air filter, although additional parts will be required to operate the throttle and air dampers.

Prepared by Yuri Datsyk

• We remove the carburetor, close the air damper. From the wall of the mixing chamber to the throttle valve, it is necessary to adjust the gap with an optimal distance of 1.6 - 1.8 millimeters. By bending the traction, we will gradually achieve the indicated indicators. The damper fits snugly to the air intake, the play does not exceed 0.25 millimeters.
• We mount the ZAZ 968 carburetor back into the car.

How to set up the VZ drive (air damper):

• We pull the entire choke control lever towards ourselves, after that we press it 1 millimeter.
• We close the air intake to the end, in this position we will carry out all fixing actions.
• We attach a steel wire to the boss of the VZ drive lever, squeeze it with a screw. We fix the drive shell on the appropriate fastening bracket.
• In order for the carburetor from Zaporozhets to work correctly, we verify the operation of the VZ drive. The closed position of the OT is observed when the lever is pulled out; damper is fully open when the lever is in the depressed position.

Actions with DZ (throttle valve)

• The throttle cable plugs into the damping device of the throttle actuator lever. The end of the drive shell is already in the bracket.
• Throttle valve is fully closed.
• The cable is clamped with a screw.
• We supply the structure with a tension spring. At the same time, we control the condition of the cable: it should not loosen, and the throttle valve should be absolutely closed.

There are two ways to adjust the idle speed for the normal operation of the carburetor from Zaporozhets:

• In the first method, we start the engine and provide heating to 75⁰С. The fuel quality screw is tightened to the stop without using excessive force. Then the same screw turns out a couple of turns. The engine starts, using the fuel quantity screw we set the working. idle speed at 950 - 1050 rpm.
• According to the second method, we do all the points of the first method. Then we set the quantity screw to the position of min idle speed, acceptable for stable operation of the motor. The quality screw allows you to achieve max increase in idle speed. And the fuel quantity screw sets the operating speed. All the steps outlined in the second method can be done twice.

Where to service the ZAZ 968 carburetor: in a workshop or in your own garage?

When setting up a carburetor on a ZAZ 968, it is not always possible to achieve a positive result on your own. Elements of the idle system can simply wear out, so it makes sense to check and replace the needles, it is possible to break in the holes for these needles. The easiest and most affordable way is to contact a specialist who will help you build a system with a gas analyzer. It all depends on your experience, free time and the availability of appropriate equipment and spare parts.

Rice. Carburetor air filter: 1 - valve; 2 - valve seat; 3 - sealing gasket; 4 - spring; 5 - glass; 6 - nylon packing; 7 - air cleaner housing; 8 - receiving pipe; 9 - crankcase ventilation tube; 10 - ventilation tube of the carburetor float chamber; 11 - branch pipe to the carburetor; 12 - spring latch; 13 - lock handle; 14 - pallet; 15 - swirler; 16 - oil deflector, A - purified air; B - unpurified air; B is oil.

To flush the filter packing, clean the sump 14 and change the oil in it, disconnect the filter housing from the engine, release the clamp on the outlet pipe and the clamp on the lock on the tie-down band. Disconnect the pan from the body 7 of the air cleaner; wash the packing with gasoline or kerosene and let it drain.

Pour out the contaminated oil from the sump, and rinse the sump with kerosene or gasoline.

Pour 0.2 liters of fresh engine oil into the cleaned pan. Filled in this way (attach the pan with locks to the top of the air cleaner.

When installing the filter, pay attention to the reliability of the sealing of the outlet pipe and the carburetor neck in order to avoid the suction of polluted air.

Fuel pump care

Caring for the fuel pump consists in periodically cleaning it from contamination, for which it is necessary to remove its cover and strainer.

You should also monitor the tightness of the gas lines, their condition, the tightness of the clamps for fastening the gas lines, the serviceability of the diaphragm and pump valves.

When removing the pump, it is necessary to monitor the safety of the gaskets.

Rice. Fuel pump: 1 - cover; 2 - filter; 3 - inlet valve seat plug; 4 - suction valve; 5 - upper body; 6 - upper diaphragm cup; 7 - inner spacer; 8 - diaphragm; 9 - lower diaphragm cup; 10 - lever; 11 - lever spring; 12 - stock; 13 - lower case; 14 - balancer; 15 - eccentric; 16 - axis of the lever and balancer; 17 - filler lever; 18 - pump gasket; 19 - sealing and adjusting gasket; 20 - pump drive rod guide; 21 - rod; 22 - spacer; 23 - remote gasket; 24 - plug of the discharge valve seat; 25 - pressure valve

In case of replacement of gaskets, pump, spacer 22, guide 20 or rod 21, it is necessary to use shims 19 to ensure normal operation and performance of the fuel pump.

Before installing the pump, it is necessary to press the filler lever 17 until the useful stroke begins and measure the distance between the lever and the mating plane of the pump housing. The value of drowning should be within A-1.0-1.5 mm.

Then you should install the guide 20 with the rod 21, the spacer 22 and the gaskets 18 and 19 on the studs of the timing gear cover and, after fixing them, turn the crankshaft until the rod 11 protrudes to the maximum. In this case, the rod should be pressed against the pump drive cam.

The rod 21 should protrude above the spacer 22 with the gasket 18 by 1.7-2.8 mm more than the filler lever 17 sinks when the free play is selected. The value of the protruding bar is regulated by a set of shims 19. Example: the filler arm sinks by A-1.5 mm.

Accordingly, the protrusion of the rod should be: 1.5 mm + (1.7-2.8) mm 3.2-4.3 mm.

Carburetor Care

Carburetor care consists in checking the tightness of all connections, plugs and plugs, removing sediment from the float chamber, as well as periodically, at least twice a year, cleaning and flushing parts, jets and carburetor channels. It is recommended to flush the carburetor with gasoline, and in case of very strong contamination with resinous substances - with acetone. Washed parts; jets and channels must be blown with a jet of compressed air. It is absolutely unacceptable to use wire, even if it is soft, to clean the jets.

Engine malfunction due to clogging of carburetor jets and valves is extremely rare. However, in case of clogging, they should be cleaned only by blowing with compressed air.

Rice. Scheme of the K-133 carburetor: 1 - cover of the float chamber; 2 - accelerator pump; 3 - atomizer; 4 - fuel supply screw; 5 - air damper; 6 - small diffuser with atomizer; 7 - large diffuser; 8 - cork; 9 - emulsion tube; 10 - jet of the main air system; 11 - fuel idle jet; 12 - air idle jet; 13 - jet of the main fuel system; 14 - fuel filter; 15 - fuel valve; 16 - body of the float chamber; 17 - float; 18 - cork; 19 - adjusting screw of the autonomous idle system (ACXX); 20 - ventilation fitting; 21 - solenoid valve for switching on the forced idle economizer system (EPKhH); 22 - operational idle adjustment screw; 23 - forced idle economizer (EPKhH); 24 - valve of the forced idle economizer system (PHX); 25 - ACXX sprayer; 26 - outlet idle system hole; 27 - throttle valve; 28 - body of the mixing chamber; 29 - fitting in the mixing chamber from the electromagnetic valve; 30 - check valve; 31 - economizer valve: 32 - economizer valve stem with spring; 33 - accelerator pump drive rod; 34 - float chamber ventilation valve; 35 - ventilation valve; 36 - electronic control unit; 37 - ignition coil; 38 - breaker-distributor; 39 - bracket; 40 - microswitch; 41 - microswitch mounting screws; 42 - microswitch drive lever; 43 - drive lever; 44 - throttle lever; A, B, D - subphrenic cavities; B - supradiaphragmatic cavity; G - 0.3-1.4 mm gap between the levers

Access to the main fuel jet 13 is opened from the outside of the carburetor after the plug 18 is unscrewed, to the economizer valve 31 - after the cover 1 of the float chamber is removed, to the idle fuel jet 11 - after the plug 14 is unscrewed.

Rice. Carburetor K-143 (front view): 1 - fuel supply pipe; 2 - lever; 3 - valve stem; 4 - plug of the main jet; 5 - valve lever fastening screw; 6 - thrust; 7 - accelerator pump drive lever; 6 - parking ventilation valve drive lever; 9 - lock nut of the parking ventilation valve; 10 - vacuum supply tube to the solenoid valve; 11 - screw for adjusting the autonomous idling system (ACXX); 12 - vacuum supply pipe to the ACXX economizer valve; 13 - drain pipe of the parking ventilation valve of the float chamber

Rice. K-133 carburetor (rear view): 1 - drain tube of the parking ventilation valve of the float chamber; 2 - upper lever with air damper axis; 3 - lever with air damper axis; 4 - telescopic air damper rod; 5 - vacuum supply tube to the solenoid valve; 6 - fitting to the vacuum regulator of the ignition distributor; 7 - vacuum supply pipe to the economizer valve of the autonomous idling system; 8 - screw for operational adjustment of the ACXX; 9 - forced idle economizer (EPKhH); 10 - thrust throttle lever; 11 - throttle actuator lever; 12 - lower air damper lever; 13 - microswitch drive lever; 14 - fuel jet plug; 15 - draft air damper rigid; 16 - microswitch; 17 - plug of the air jet of the main system; 18 - bracket for fastening the sheath of the air damper cable; 19 - filter plug; 20 - screw for fastening the air damper cable

Possible clogging of the following parts of the carburetor:

• fuel jet 13. In this case, the carburetor float chamber will overflow and gasoline will flow into the main air jet 10 of the main metering system, which can cause the engine to stop when the car is moving or when operating at low idling speed and make it difficult to start a hot engine;
• fuel jet 11 of the idling system, as a result of which the engine will not work at a low idle speed even with the screw 22 of the operational adjustment of the IAC almost turned out;
• main fuel jet 13 or economizer valve 31, while the engine will not develop power;
• screws 4 of the sprayer 3 of the accelerator pump, in this case there are interruptions in the operation of the engine when the car starts off and when the throttle is suddenly opened.

The carburetor must be disassembled carefully so as not to damage the parts. In case of dismantling the carburetor during its subsequent assembly, attention should be paid to the presence and serviceability of the sealing gaskets under the jets and plugs.

If the warm engine does not start well, check the beginning of the opening of the parking ventilation valve 34. For this you need:

• adjust the speed of the crankshaft when the engine is idling 950-1050 min-1 (rpm);
• adjust the stroke of the valve stem 3 with the rod 6 and, consequently, the opening of the valve by 2-4 mm from its closed position, while the lever 8 of the valve drive must be pressed against the lever 7 of the accelerator pump drive. After adjustment, fix the rod with nut 9.

The need to check the autonomous idling system arises when there are interruptions in the idle speed.

In this case, it is necessary to monitor the correct installation and operation of the microswitch and the tightness of the electro-pneumatic valve.

To determine the correct installation and check the operation of the microswitch, it is necessary to connect a tester or a power source with a light bulb to its contacts, having previously disconnected the wires from the microswitch.

Having slightly released the lever 42, pressing and releasing the lever, check the operation of the microswitch. When you press the microswitch lever, the control light should go out, when released, it should light up. After releasing the lever 42, then, turning the lever 43 of the throttle actuator within the free play Г=0.3-1.4 mm between it and the tendril of the lever 44, check the correct installation of the microswitch; The control lamp lights up when the free play is selected and goes out when turning to the right. In this case, the throttle valve axis must be stationary, and the lever must move without jamming.

If the microswitch is installed incorrectly, loosen the screws 41 and, moving the microswitch in the groove of the lower screw, fix it in the required position, tighten its fastening screws and check again. During operation, the microswitch cannot be repaired.

The tightness of the solenoid valve is checked by supplying air at a pressure of 0.08-0.085 MPa (0.8-0.85 kgf / cm2) to the side fitting, while the ventilation fitting must be closed.

When a vacuum of 0.085 MPa (0.85 kgf/cm2) is applied to the vertical fitting, the solenoid valve must open with the 12 V voltage connected and close with the voltage removed.

If a voltage of 12 V is connected when the engine is not running, then a characteristic click should be heard.

With the engine idling, the valve is checked by disconnecting the wire. In this case, the engine should stop.

The electronic control unit 36 ​​has two limit limits. With an increase in the engine speed of the crankshaft more than 1500-1800 min-1 (rpm), the positive potential is turned off at terminal 1; when the frequency drops below 1500 min-1 (rpm), terminal 1 becomes positive. In this way, the operability of the unit is checked, and before that it is necessary to remove the plug from the microswitch. The absence of a positive potential on terminal 1 (in the presence of a positive potential on terminal 2) indicates a malfunction of the unit and the need to replace it.

In the event of a failure of the forced idle economizer system, it is necessary to de-energize the system and connect tubes 5 and 7 with a flexible hose, while the carburetor will work according to the generally accepted scheme without an electronic control unit.

Accelerator Pump Care

The need to check the operation of the accelerator pump arises with noticeable "failures" in the operation of the carburetor (delay in the response to transient conditions). To check the pump, remove the cover of the float chamber, unscrew the screw 4 of the accelerator pump, and by pressing the throttle lever, make sure that gasoline is supplied to the open hole. If gasoline is supplied, blow out the valve and sprayer and reinstall it. If gasoline is not supplied, flush the chamber and achieve a smooth stroke of the accelerator pump piston.

The need to check the tightness of the fuel supply valve arises when gasoline overflows, gasoline flows through the accelerator pump drive rod and in other places, or increased fuel consumption is observed.

Rice. Float with fuel valve: 1 - float; 2 - tongue for setting the level; 3 - float stroke limiter; 4 - float axis; 5 - seat of the fuel supply valve; 6 - float chamber cover; 7 - fuel supply valve needle; 8 - sealing washer

To check the tightness of the valve, it is necessary to remove the cover of the float chamber and check the tightness of the valve. If necessary, replace the sealing washer 8 or the fuel valve assembly.

To avoid destruction of the sealing washer, do not:

• a) flush the valve with acetone or other solvents;
• b) press the float 1 on the needle 7 of the valve when adjusting the fuel level in the float chamber.

The float with the valve closed should be located so that the longitudinal stampings on it are parallel to the plane of the connectors with the cover turned upside down.

The position of the float is adjusted by bending the thrust tongue 2, at the same time it is necessary to set the stroke of the needle of the fuel supply valve to 1.2-1.5 mm by bending the limiter 3 of the float stroke.

Checking the level of gasoline in the float chamber. After each disassembly and assembly of the carburetor, as well as periodically during the operation of the car, check and, if necessary, set the gasoline level in the float chamber 21-23.5 mm below the plane of the body connector and the carburetor cover.

Rice. Checking the fuel level in the carburetor float chamber: 1 - scale bar; 2 - glass tube; 3 - fitting; 4 - gasket; 5 - carburetor

The level of gasoline in the float chamber can be determined using a glass tube 2 with a diameter of at least 9 mm, connected by a rubber tube to a specially made fitting 3, which is screwed instead of a drain plug into the bottom of the float chamber.

To check the level of gasoline, there is a convex mark on the wall of the body of the float chamber.

After screwing the fitting into the hole closed by the drain plug, the glass tube is held in a vertical position by pressing it against the wall of the float chamber housing, and gasoline is pumped into the carburetor with the manual pumping lever.

Ruler 1 measures the distance from the upper plane of the float chamber to the fuel level in the float chamber (to the bottom of the meniscus).

After checking the level, install the drain plug.

Adjusting the carburetor when the engine is running at a low idle speed

The economic operation of the engine depends to a large extent on the correct adjustment of the carburetor when the engine is running at a low idle speed. This adjustment is made on a warm engine - oil temperature is not less than 60-70 °, using screw 8 for operational adjustment.

The engine crankshaft speed when idling is set to 950-1050 min-1 (rpm).

In the case of using the K-133A carburetor, the forced idle economizer 9 (EPKhK), microswitch 16 and solenoid valve 21 are not installed on the car. Adjusting the idle speed of the crankshaft is similar to adjusting on the K-133 carburetor.

Caring for a gasoline sump

Caring for a gasoline sump (installed on the left side member under the floor of the car) consists in draining water and sludge, as well as washing the filter element (set of plates), for which you need to unscrew the bolt on the sump cover and remove the housing together with the filter element. When disassembling the sump, it is important not to damage the gasket that ensures the tightness of the body. To drain the sediment from the filter, you need to unscrew the drain plug in the lower part of the housing, drain the sediment and rinse the filter with clean gasoline.

Ignition Coil Care

During operation, do the following:

1. Avoid contamination of the plastic cover, terminals and wires; at each technical inspection, wipe the cover with a napkin - dry or moistened with clean gasoline.
2. Do not loosen the wires to the cover terminals.
3. Protect the coil from mechanical damage; a crack in the cover or a dent in the casing can damage the coil.

At each technical inspection, clean the ventilation holes of the resistor located between the legs of the coil mounting clamp from dirt.

Care of the ignition distributor

During operation, it is necessary to maintain the distributor contacts in good condition (keep them clean and check the gap between them), monitor the lubrication of rubbing parts and remember that it is forbidden to use oil from the engine crankcase to lubricate the distributor and that excessive distributor lubrication is harmful, since can lead to rapid wear of the breaker contacts and failure of the distributor.

It is necessary to monitor the cleanliness of the cover and the distributor housing, as well as the contact of the wire lugs in the cover terminals. In case of insufficiently reliable contact, the plastic of the cover inside the terminal sockets burns out, which leads to the failure of the cover and the tips of the candles.

When servicing the distributor, you should:

1. Remove the distributor cap and thoroughly wipe it inside and out with a dry, clean cloth or a cloth soaked in gasoline. Inspect the lid and slider.
2. Check the reliability of the connection of low and high voltage wires.
3. Check the fastening of the pipelines of the vacuum regulator of the distributor.
4. Check if there is any sticking of the contact carbon - resistance in the cover.
5. Turn the cover of the grease fitting on the distributor shaft 1-2 turns. If the oiler cap is fully screwed on, unscrew it and fill it with CIATIM-201 or LITOL-24 grease. Lubricate the rubbing parts of the distributor with clean engine oil by dripping: 1-2 drops onto the contact lever axle, 4-5 drops into the cam bushing (removing the slider and the oil seal under it), 1-2 drops onto the cam filter.
6. Check the cleanliness of the breaker contacts and, if necessary, remove dirt and oil from them. Wipe the contacts with suede soaked in gasoline. Instead of suede, you can use any fabric that does not leave fibers on the contacts, and alcohol instead of gasoline. After grinding the contacts, you need to pull the breaker lever away from the fixed contact for a few seconds to allow the gasoline to evaporate.
7. Check the condition of the working surface of the contacts and, if necessary, clean them. The contacts are cleaned with a special abrasive file or on an abrasive bar with fine grain, removing the lever and the stand with a fixed contact from the distributor. When cleaning the contacts, it is necessary to remove the tubercle on one of them and somewhat smooth the surface of the other, on which a recess (crater) is formed. This recess is not recommended to be removed completely. After stripping the contacts to remove dust, the breaker must be blown with dry compressed air, wipe the contacts with a dry clean cloth (passing it between the contacts) and adjust the gap between them.
8. Inspect the cam and, if it is dirty, wipe it with a dry, clean cloth and lubricate with a thin layer of CIATIM-201 lubricant.

Adjusting the gap between the breaker contacts

To ensure the normal operation of the ignition system, the gap between the contacts of the breaker must be adjusted within 0.35-0.45 mm or, when diagnosing the engine, the angle of the closed contact is 54-62 ° along the distributor shaft.

The clearance is adjusted as follows. It is necessary to remove the cover 1 of the distributor and the slider 2 and slowly turn the crankshaft of the engine with the start handle to the position where the gap between the contacts 3 of the breaker is the largest, i.e. when the textolite cam 4 of the breaker is installed on top of the edge of the cam 5. After that, the gap is checked with a flat probe between contacts. If the gap does not correspond to the value indicated above, it is necessary to loosen the screw 17 and, turning the eccentric 6, set the required gap, then fix the screw and check the gap again. Then you need to put the cover in place and secure it with latches 8. After adjusting the gap between the contacts of the breaker, the correct setting of the ignition timing is violated. Therefore, the ignition setting must be checked and, if necessary, readjusted.

Ignition installation

Rice. Ignition distributor: 1 - cover; 2 - slider (distributor rotor); 3 - breaker contacts; 4 - moving contact cam; 5 - cam; 6 - eccentric screw, 7 - low voltage terminal; in" latch; 9 - felt brush for lubricating the cam; 10 - adjusting lever; 11 - nut of the bolt for fastening the octane corrector plate; 12 - movable octane corrector plate; 13 - clamp bolt of the movable plate of the octane corrector; 14 - fixed plate octane-corrector; 15 - nut for fastening the fixed plate of the octane corrector; 16 - cap oiler; 17 - locking screw

The ignition is set according to the MOH mark, indicating the moment of ignition in the first cylinder. The opening of the breaker contacts should begin at the moment when the MOH mark on the oil cleaner cover coincides with the mounting lug a on the timing gear cover. In this case, the slider 2 (distributor rotor) must be against the distributor electrode with the number 1. The procedure for installing the ignition is as follows:

1. Remove the distributor cap and rotor, check the gap between the breaker contacts (adjust if necessary). Put the rotor back in place.
2. Set the crankshaft to the position corresponding to the beginning of the compression stroke in the first cylinder.
3. Slowly turn the engine crankshaft until the M3 mark coincides with the protrusion on the timing gear cover. Make sure the rotor is against the cover contact connected to the wire going to the #1 spark plug.
4. Loosen nut 11, set the octane corrector to zero division of the scale by turning the adjusting lever 10, tighten the nut 11 of the bolt for fastening the octane corrector plates.
5. Loosen the bolt 18 of the clamp securing the distributor housing to the movable plate 14 of the octane corrector and turn the housing counterclockwise so that the breaker contacts close.
6. Take a portable lamp and two insulated wires. Using additional wires, connect one end of the plug of the portable lamp to ground, and the other to the low voltage terminal of the ignition coil, to which the wire is attached to terminal 7 of the distributor.
7. Turn on the ignition and carefully turn the distributor housing clockwise until the lamp lights up.
8. Stop the rotation of the distributor exactly at the moment the light bulb flashes. If this fails, repeat the operation.
9. While holding the distributor housing from turning, tighten the bolt 13 of the housing clamp, put the cover 1 in place.
10. Check the connection of the wires from the spark plugs, starting with the first cylinder, in the order 1-3-4-2, counting them counterclockwise. It should be borne in mind that the installation of ignition according to the MZ mark on the pulley with the middle position of the octane corrector provides the most favorable power and economic indicators of the engine only if the appropriate gasoline is used to power it.
11. However, after each setting of the ignition, adjusting the contacts in the breaker or changing the fuel, it is necessary to check the compliance of the ignition timing while the vehicle is moving. The final ignition setting is performed with an octane corrector. Warm up the engine at idle, and then, moving in IV gear on a flat road at a speed of 25-30 km / h, give the car acceleration by sharply pressing the throttle pedal. If at the same time an insignificant and short-term detonation is observed, then the ignition is considered to be installed correctly.

In case of strong detonation, the "arrow" of the movable plate should be moved towards the "-" sign to reduce the ignition timing, and in the absence of detonation - towards the "+".

The largest angle of advance (or retardation) of ignition, provided by manual adjustment using an octane corrector, is 12 ° (according to the angle of rotation of the engine crankshaft) relative to the initial setting (5 ° to TDC).

The engine is very sensitive to the correct setting of the ignition timing; too early or too late ignition leads to overheating of the engine, loss of power, burnout of valves and pistons.

Spark Plug Care

Every time the vehicle is serviced, remove the spark plugs and do the following:

1. Check the condition of the outer and inner parts of the insulator. If there is carbon deposits on the inside (skirt) of the insulator, clean the insulator with a brush or sandblaster. After cleaning the carbon deposits, the candles must be washed in gasoline. Do not clean candles from carbon deposits with sharp metal objects or burn candles in an open flame, as this may damage the insulator. If the deposit is not removed, the candle must be replaced.
2. Check the gap between the electrodes and, if necessary, adjust it by carefully bending only the side electrode. Gap - 0.6-0.75 mm is checked with a round wire probe. Before unscrewing the spark plugs, the spark plug seat in the cylinder head must be thoroughly wiped of dirt to prevent dirt from entering the engine. It is advisable to blow out the sockets of the candles with compressed air.
3. The candles should be unscrewed and wrapped with a special socket wrench supplied with the driver's tool kit. It is forbidden to use other keys, as this may damage the insulator.
4. You must first screw in the candle by hand until it stops, and then tighten it tightly with a wrench with a tightening torque of 35-40 Nm (3.5-4 kgf-m). Place a gasket under the spark plug. The absence of a gasket or a loose screwing in of the spark plug leads to overheating and failure of the spark plug.
5. It is forbidden to replace candles A23-1 with others with a lower glow number. The discrepancy between the thermal characteristics of the candles leads to unsatisfactory engine operation, burnout of the pistons and exhaust valves.