The starter of a VAZ 2107 car is an electric motor, thanks to which the engine starts. The article considers the main malfunctions, provides instructions for disassembling the VAZ starter and repairing it. In addition, photo and video materials are attached.

[ Hide ]

Troubleshooting

If the starter does not turn, then it must either be replaced or repaired. Before starting the VAZ 2107, diagnostics should be performed to identify faults.

Main causes of malfunctions

The starter device VAZ 21074 has a similar UAZ and other models. For diagnostics, it is better to have a diagram from the instruction manual.

You need to remove the starter for diagnosis. Information about where it is located and how to remove the device can be found in the manual. The dismantled unit must be cleaned from the outside of dirt. To check the retractor relay, its output “50” must be connected to the plus of the battery, and the body of the unit to the minus (the author of the video is AUTO CUT).

Check terminals, lugs and wire connections. If they are oxidized, they need to be cleaned, lubricated with petroleum jelly and tightened tightly.

To check the windings and armature, you need to perform the following sequence of actions:

1. First, the back cover is dismantled and the alkaline assembly is disconnected.
2. The absence of a short circuit is checked by connecting one probe of the multimeter to the case, and the second in turn to the terminals of the starter windings. The resistance value must be greater than 10 kΩ.
3. Then the probes must be connected to the terminals of the windings. If the value tends to infinity, this indicates the presence of a break.
4. To exclude the absence of an armature short circuit to ground, it is necessary to attach one multimeter probe to the case, and connect the second in turn to the contact plates. The resistance reading must be greater than 10 kΩ.

There are several main reasons why the starter does not work on the VAZ 2107:

1. After the ignition is turned on, the unit does not turn, it only clicks. It is possible that the battery is discharged.
2. The device turns, but it takes time to start the engine. Faults must be identified and corrected.
3. If, when the key is turned, the starting device is spinning, and the VAZ 2107 engine does not start, you need to change the bendix. When replacing, lubricate all threaded connections with lithol. In addition, it is advisable to check the condition of the flywheel rims.

Guide for dismantling and assembling the mechanism

If the VAZ 2107 does not start due to a breakdown of the starter, then it is replaced with a new unit. Depending on the model, a gear starter can be installed on the VAZ.

The replacement procedure consists of the following steps:.

1. First of all, the power of the car is turned off by disconnecting the negative terminal from the battery.
2. Next, on a car with an injector, you need to remove the protective shield from dirt.
3. Then you should first unscrew the two bolts from above, and then the bolt located below. When all the bolts are unscrewed, the unit is shifted forward. For engines with an injector, it is necessary to remove two stretch marks of the intake pipe.
4. For engines with a carburetor, the air intake, air filter and air duct must be removed.
5. At the next stage, it is necessary to unscrew the nut of the wire tip, which connects the output of the retractor relay to the plus of the battery, with a key to "13".
6. Before removing the unit, you need to disconnect the wires from terminal "50". The device should be dismantled through the top, pushing it between the clutch housing and the exhaust pipe.
7. Installation is carried out in the reverse order.

When repairing, either the VAZ 2107 starter or its components that have failed are changed. To replace parts, the device must be disassembled. The disassembled starter is assembled in the reverse order. When connecting wires, use the wiring diagram.

The diagnostic procedure is simple and can be performed by any motorist, which will make it possible to save on car service.

Sorry, there are currently no surveys available.

Video "Repair of the starting unit of the VAZ classic"

This video from Anton Vidosov tells about the diagnostics and repair of the starting device for classic VAZs.

You will need: keys “10” and “13”, socket wrench (head) “8”, Phillips and flat-bladed screwdrivers, circlip pliers, tubular mandrel, hammer.

2. Turn away a nut of fastening of the tire to a contact bolt.

3. Disconnect the tire from a contact bolt of the traction relay.

4. Turn away two bolts of fastening of the traction relay and...

5. ... remove the relay.

6. Remove the anchor of the traction relay by lifting it up so that the anchor loop is removed from the lever.

7. Remove the two tie rod nuts.

8. Remove the drive side cover with gearbox and drive assembly.

9. Remove the cover from the collector side with the brush holder and brushes.

10. Remove gear from armature shaft.

11. Remove the armature from the stator.

12. Please note that a washer is installed on the armature shaft on the drive side.

13. Remove the armature shaft support.

14. Remove the two tie rods from the drive side cover. It is not necessary to unscrew these studs, but it is more convenient to remove the gearbox and drive without them.

15. Take out three planetary gear wheels of a reducer. If their teeth or needle bearings embedded in the gears are damaged, replace the gears.

16. Remove the gearbox with the drive from the cover by pressing the starter drive gear.

17. Remove the support with the seal from the lever.

18. Remove the support 1 from the seal 2. The plastic support must not be heavily worn or damaged. Replace a defective support, as well as a badly deformed or hardened rubber seal.

19. Knock the stop ring off the stop ring using a suitable drift.

20. Remove the retaining ring, and then restrictive.

21. Remove the drive assembly from the drive shaft.

22. Remove a lock ring of the lever.

23. Remove the lever with the leash and washer.

24. Remove the lever spring.

25. Remove the lever from the leash and separate the halves of the lever.

26. Remove the internal gear circlip.

27. Remove the internal gear and drive shaft support from the shaft.

28. Remove the o-ring from the support. Replace a badly deformed or loose ring.

29. Remove the insert from the support.

30. Unscrew the two screws and remove the brush holder from the cover on the collector side.

31. Prying off the brush holders with a screwdriver ...

32. ... remove them and clamping springs. Replace deformed or damaged retainers and heavily compressed or bent springs.

33. Remove the brushes from the brush holder guides.

34. Remove bare brushes.

35. Remove the cardboard insulating pad. Replace a torn or over-compressed gasket.

36. Remove the connecting bus with insulated brushes.

37. Examine the anchor. If collector 1 is dirty or has marks, signs of burning, etc., sand the collector with fine glass sandpaper. With a significant roughness of the collector or protrusion of mica between its plates (lamellas), machine the collector on a lathe and then grind it with fine glass sandpaper. The runout of the core relative to the pins of the shaft should not exceed 0.08 mm. Otherwise, replace the anchor. If a yellow coating from the bearing is found on the shaft 2 of the armature, remove it with a fine sandpaper, as this can lead to gear seizing on the shaft. If there are scuffs or nicks on the surfaces of the pins and splines of the shaft, replace the anchor. Check the reliability of the soldering of the winding leads of the 3rd armature to the collector plates. Inspect the winding at the ends of the armature, the diameter of the winding should be less than the iron package of the armature. Otherwise, replace the anchor.

38. Check the condition of the armature winding using a test lamp powered by 220 V alternating current. Apply voltage to the collector plate and armature core. The lamp should not light up. If the lamp is on, then there is a short circuit in the armature winding or collector plate to ground. In this case, replace the anchor.

39. While holding the freewheel, rotate the starter gear in both directions: clockwise, the gear should rotate freely, and counterclockwise should not rotate. Otherwise, replace the drive.

40. Install the starter drive on the drive shaft, it should move freely, without jamming, along the splines of the shaft.

41. If drive parts are severely worn or damaged, replace drive. If nicks are found on the engagement part of the gear teeth, grind them with a fine-grained emery wheel of small diameter.

42. Inspect the bushings that rotate the shafts installed in the drive side starter cover, manifold side cover, armature shaft support, and drive shaft support. If bushings are worn or burred, pitted, etc., replace caps or bearings with defective bushings. Also replace caps and bearings with cracks.

47. Check up an ohmmeter, whether contact bolts of the traction relay are closed by a contact plate. To check, assemble the circuit shown in the photo and push the armature inside the relay until it stops. If the bolts do not close, replace or repair the relay.

48. To repair the relay, unscrew the two screws 1 and solder the terminals 2 of the relay windings, remove the cover 3, clean the bolt heads and the contact plate with sandpaper. If the bolt heads are badly burnt, turn the bolts 180°. Assemble the relay in reverse order

49. Reassemble the starter in reverse order. Before assembly, lubricate the teeth of the drive gear with engine oil, the screw splines of the drive shaft, the teeth of the gear with internal gearing, the planetary gears and the splines of the rotor shaft with grease (CIATIM-201, 202, 203 or Litol-24).

50. The brush holder must be installed in the starter separately from the cover on the collector side, since the brushes are pushed out of the guides by springs and it is impossible to keep them in their original position without a special device. For preliminary assembly and installation of the brush holder, use a thin-walled mounting sleeve 1 with a diameter equal to or slightly larger than the diameter of the collector (about 30 mm).

51. Install the assembled brush holder into the starter housing until it stops, remove the mounting sleeve and install the cover on the collector side.

Introduction

1. Starter device

1.1 Types and purpose of the starter

1.2 Starter device

1.3 How the starter works

1.4 Materials used in the manufacture, maintenance and repair of the starter. Operating materials

2. Starter Maintenance

2.1 The meaning and essence of car maintenance and repair

2.2 Possible starter malfunctions

2.3 Maintenance checklist for starter

3. Starter repair

3.1 Disassembly work carried out during the repair of the starter

3.2 Defective parts of the starter

3.3 Methods and methods for restoring the starter's performance

3.4 Assembly work

3.5 Post-repair testing

3.6 Organization of the workplace of a car repairman

4. Labor protection

Conclusion

List of sources used

Introduction

This topic "Starter repair" is quite relevant at the present stage. The main tasks facing road transport are to increase the mileage of the car, reduce the cost of road transport, increase comfort and traffic safety.

The importance and relevance of repair in automotive enterprises is inextricably linked with the economic and social development of all sectors of the national economy and the transition of everything with the development of the automotive industry and vehicles with the scientific and technological process in these industries. The purpose of the activity of the ARP is to fully meet the needs of road transport in ensuring the performance of vehicles at minimal cost.

The tasks of the ARP are to carry out major repairs in the required quantities and in the shortest possible time, improve the quality of repairs, expand the range, restore parts and increase the efficiency of using the residual resources of parts, assemblies, assemblies, reduce costs per unit of useful work of overhauled vehicles, increase labor productivity and production profitability.

Internal combustion engines installed on vehicles do not have a starting torque. To start independent operation of such an engine, it is necessary to inform it of a certain initial or starting speed, i.e., start the engine. The starting speed depends on the type of engine: 40 - 70 rpm for carburetor engines and 100 - 200 rpm for diesel engines. As starting devices, mainly direct-acting electric starters are used.

An electric starter is a device consisting of a DC motor, a clutch-disengagement mechanism, a gearbox and control equipment. The clutch-disengagement mechanism and gearbox are commonly referred to as the starter drive.

As a source of energy for powering the starter, batteries of a special design are used - the so-called starter batteries.

The purpose of the work is to develop proposals for improving the quality of repair and maintenance of the starter. It consists in the systematization of scientific and practical knowledge in the field of starter repair, and specifically the development of initiative and independence of decisions on various problems that arise in the use of alternative types of new materials, the development of new test methods and adjustments in order to obtain improved characteristics for reliability, durability and economy.

To achieve this goal, the following main tasks have been set:

Familiarize yourself with the starter device;

Consider the main malfunctions of the starter and how to eliminate them;

Consider defects in starter parts and methods for their repair;

Familiarize yourself with the list of work performed in the scope of maintenance for the starter;

Develop measures to improve the efficiency and safety of car operation and recommendations for use in the development of car maintenance technology and in the practical activities of car service enterprises.

Establish basic safety standards.

The written examination work was written on the basis of scientific works of domestic and foreign experts on the problems of the efficiency of operation and repair of the starter, improving the quality of service and diagnosing the starter.

This work consists of an introduction, four chapters, a conclusion, a list of references, tables and figures. The list of sources used includes 12 items.

starter car repair

1. Starter device

1.1 Purpose and types of starter

The starter is a DC motor that rotates the crankshaft at the frequency necessary to start the engine. When turning the engine flywheel, the starter must overcome the moment of resistance created by friction and compression. In this case, the starting speed at positive temperatures for gasoline engines is 40-50 rpm, and for diesel engines 100-250 rpm.

Depending on the place of application, starters are divided into groups: for cars, for trucks and other equipment. The classification of starters according to design features is very diverse. Currently, gear-type starters with permanent magnets are most often installed in cars.

Starters without gearbox. After the voltage is applied to the control clamp of the electromagnetic switch, the bendix gear moves into engagement with the flywheel ring, current is immediately supplied to the starter armature, which begins to rotate. The gear is connected to the starter shaft by means of a freewheel. After starting the motor, the freewheel loosens the connection between the gear and the shaft, thus protecting the armature from excessive revolutions. When the current supply to the clamp is interrupted, the gear returns to its original position.

Starters with a reducer. The transmission of torque from the armature to the gear is provided by means of a gearbox. Geared starter benefits include more power, more starting torque, 48% less weight, improved starting ability, 100% longer life and low maintenance requirements. Repair of generators is required a little less often. Despite the general principle of design, starters can vary greatly in their technical features, which depend (simplified) on the size and type of motor. The size of the motor describes the so-called torque of resistance to cranking: the larger it is, the greater the power of the starter must be.

1.2 Starter device

The starter consists of a housing with poles and an excitation winding, an armature, brushes of a remote drive, consisting of a switching relay, a traction relay, a drive lever with a fork and a drive gear, the armature shaft rotates in bronze bushings, several sections of thick copper winding are laid in its grooves. ribbons. The ends of the tapes of each section are attached to the plates of the collector, to which brushes are pressed by springs, two of which are connected to the ground, and the other two - to the end of the excitation winding, and the other end of the excitation winding to the clamp of the traction relay.

The traction relay consists of a core with a retracting and holding winding and a movable core connected to the drive gear lever (Figure 1.1).

The freewheel clutch consists of a drive cage moving on the splines of the shaft, and a driven cage with gears and four wedge-shaped recesses. Rollers with springs are placed in the wedge-shaped recesses, the rotation of the drive cage causes the rollers to move into the narrow part of the recess and the driven cage is jammed on the drive cage. And if you rotate the driven cage relative to the leading one along the way, then the rollers move to a wider part of the recesses, and the driven cage will rotate freely on the leading cage.

Figure 1.1 - Car starter device (device diagram)

The main parts of the starter:

Solenoid starter relay;

Brush holder (brush holder) starter;

starter plug;

starter mask;

Starter bushing;

Starter bearing;

Rear starter cover;

starter stator;

Starter anchor;

Starter Bendix.

1.3 How the starter works

The principle of operation of the starter is as follows: when the contacts of the ignition switch are closed, a current flows through the retracting winding of the traction relay, the electromagnet plunger is retracted and the holding winding of the electromagnet is turned on, the plunger (core) of the electromagnet and the lever (fork) connected to it moves the bendix gear. At the same time, the plunger (core) presses on the plate, which, at the moment the gear is engaged with the flywheel crown, closes the contacts. The current through closed contacts enters the motor winding, and the armature begins to rotate. After starting the engine, the driver, using the ignition switch, breaks the circuit of the electromagnet winding, under the action of the spring, the contacts of the electromagnet open, and the bendix gear returns to its original position.

1.4 Materials used in the manufacture, maintenance and repair of the starter. Operating materials

The operating materials used are engine oil.

Lubricate the bearings, journals and shaft splines before assembly.

Diagnostics of starters is carried out with the help of the E-214 device, on stands of type 532M, E-211, 532-2M. After installing and attaching the starter in a special grip of the stand, they check in idle mode - turn on the starter, let it run for 30 s and measure the current using an ammeter) and the armature speed (portable tachometer).

If positive results are obtained after the check, the starter is checked in full braking mode, for this, a special device with a dynamometer is installed on the E-211 stand.

To check the performance of the starter traction relay, a voltmeter or ammeter is inserted into the power circuit of the traction relay winding, a gasket 12.8 to 15.0 mm thick is installed between the restrictive ring and the drive gear.

The starter housing is made of structural magnetic steel (usually rolled from a sheet - welded).

2. Starter maintenance

2.1 The meaning and essence of car maintenance

In our country, a planned preventive maintenance and repair system for cars has been adopted. The essence of this system is that maintenance is carried out according to plan, and repairs are carried out on demand.

The fundamental foundations of the preventive maintenance and repair system for vehicles are established by the current Regulations on the maintenance and repair of road transport rolling stock.

Maintenance includes the following types of work: cleaning and washing, control and diagnostics, fastening, lubricating, refueling, adjusting, electrical and other work, performed, as a rule, without disassembling the units and removing individual components and mechanisms from the vehicle. If during maintenance it is impossible to verify the full serviceability of individual components, then they should be removed from the vehicle for control on special stands and instruments.

Maintenance: installed in three types; daily (EO), first (TO-1), second (TO-2).

EO is carried out daily upon the return or departure of the car. The EO includes checking the brakes, clutch, direction indicators, wheels, etc.

TO-1 and TO-2 are performed after a certain run.

TO-1 includes works:

1) Checking the oil level in the gearbox.

2) The steering is lubricated.

3) Checking the level of brake fluid in the brake system, oil leakage on the engine, cooling, light, dimensions, etc.

TO-2 includes works:

1) Checking the brakes, checking the pads on the rear and front brake pads, checking and inspecting the brake drums, bearings of the rear and front hubs, checking and replacing units.

2) Changing the oil in the engine, gearbox, etc.

There is also seasonal maintenance (SO), it is carried out twice a year to prepare the machines for the summer and winter periods of operation.

Car repair is installed in two types of current and capital.

Each type of maintenance (TO) includes a strictly established list (nomenclature) of works (operations) that must be performed. These operations are divided into two components - control and performing.

The control part (diagnostic) of maintenance operations is mandatory, and the execution part is performed as needed. This significantly reduces material and labor costs during maintenance of the rolling stock.

Diagnostics is part of the technological process of maintenance (TO) and current repair (TR) of cars, providing initial information about the technical condition of the car. Vehicle diagnostics is characterized by its purpose and place in the technological process of maintenance and repair.

Current repair (TR) is performed when it is necessary to eliminate the noticed malfunctions during the operation and check of the car.

Overhaul (CR) provides for the complete restoration of the normal state of all parts, assemblies of the car.

KR is performed in auto repair shops or at the factory, EO, TO-1, TO-2; TR - in complex garages, service stations. Upon returning the car from the line to the complex garage, it undergoes acceptance at which they check technical condition and determine the need for ongoing repairs.

2.2 Possible starter malfunctions

Table 2.1 - Possible faults

Malfunction	Possible causes of malfunction	Remedy
Starter does not turn engine when starting
No weight on engine
Gear selector not in "P" or "N" position (automatic transmission)	Switch to "P" position
Faulty automatic transmission multifunction sensor	Replace sensor
Power is not supplied to the 50th terminal of the solenoid relay	Check the integrity of the terminal wire. Check the contact group of the ignition switch
Defective solenoid relay	Replace solenoid relay
Strong wear of the armature collector	Check and, if necessary, replace the anchor
The starter turns the engine slowly	Discharged or defective battery	Charge or replace the battery
Bad weight on the engine	Check the reliability of the ground contact, tighten the ground wire mounting bolts
Worn starter bushings	Replace starter bushings
Defective solenoid relay	Replace solenoid relay
The stator or armature winding is in contact with ground	Replace stator or armature
The brushes do not fit snugly against the commutator ("hung" or worn out)
Poor wire contact between starter and battery	Check the length and freedom of movement of the brushes in the brush holder. Replace brushes or brush assembly
Bendix wear	Check wire
Starter works but crankshaft does not turn	Destroyed parts of the gearbox	Replace bendix
Faulty contact group of the ignition switch	Replace the defective part of the gearbox
After starting the engine, the starter continues to rotate	Defective solenoid relay	Replace the contact group of the ignition switch

2.3 Maintenance checklist for starter

TO-1 - to carry out cleaning, fixing and inspection work, paying special attention to the condition of the insulation of the wires and contacts of the external circuit. Clean strongly oxidized contacts; if the wires are soldered or torn at the junctions with the terminals, they should be replaced. Check the start of the engine by the starter; if a malfunction is detected, the starter should be handed over to the electrical shop for verification.

TO-2 - perform the scope of work for TO-1. Check the operation of the starter by starting the engine; after carrying out diagnostics with portable devices or with the help of testers, a conclusion is made about the technical condition of the starter. First you need to remove the protective tape, check the condition of the brushes and the collector; when oiling, it is wiped with a rag soaked in gasoline; traces of burning and oxidation can be removed by slipping a strip of sandpaper under the brushes with grain to the collector (grit 100-140). Then blow out with compressed air. In case of a clear malfunction and with seasonal TO-2, it is necessary to transfer the starter to the electrical workshop for diagnostics, maintenance and repair.

At the next seasonal maintenance of the car after a run of 100,000 km, it is necessary to remove the starter from the engine, disassemble it and inspect it.

The starter draws a lot of current, so even small transient resistances in its circuit can reduce the power of the starter.

Check the condition of the wires connecting the battery to the starter and engine block.

In order to ensure reliability and trouble-free operation, the starter is cleaned of dirt and oil, its mounting on the engine, the condition and fastening of the wire lugs on the starter terminals and in the power circuit are checked.

3. Starter repair

3.1 Disassembly work carried out in the process of repairing the starter

Before repair, the starter is removed from the engine and disassembled. It is necessary to unscrew the nut on the lower contact bolt of the traction relay and disconnect the stator winding output from it. Unscrew the nuts securing the traction relay and remove it.

Loosen the screws and remove the protective cover 8 (Figure 3.1). Remove the lock washer 9, unscrew the coupling bolts 12 and disconnect the body 11 with the cover 5 from the cover 1 with the anchor 13. Remove the plug 2 from the front cover.

Unscrew the screws fastening to the brush holders of the stator winding leads, and disconnect the housing from the cover 5. Remove the springs 7 and brushes 6.

Unpin and remove from the cover the axle of the lever 3 of the starter drive. Remove the lever and armature with the drive from the cover, and then disconnect the lever from the drive.

To unmoor the drive, remove the retaining ring from under the restrictive ring 16. The drive is disassembled after removing the lock washer from the coupling hub.

If the traction relay is made in a collapsible version, i.e. the relay parts are not rolled in its housing, then to disassemble it, you need to unscrew the nuts of the coupling bolts and solder the winding leads from the “50” plug and from the tip attached to the lower contact bolt of the traction relay.

After disassembly, blow out the parts with compressed air and wipe.

Figure 3.1 - Starter parts 35.3708

1 - starter cover on the drive side with an intermediate ring; 2 - rubber plug; 3 - drive lever; 4 - traction relay; 5 - cover from the side of the collector; 6 - brush; 7 - brush spring; 8 - protective cover; 9 - lock washer; 10 - adjusting washer; 11 - body; 12 - coupling bolt; 13 - anchor; 14 - insulating tube; 15 - overrunning clutch with drive gear; 16 - restrictive ring

Features of disassembling the ST-221 starter are associated with a different design of the manifold and rear cover.

Figure 3.2 - Details of the rear of the ST-221 starter

1 - stator pole; 2 - serial coil of the stator winding; 3 - shunt coil of the stator winding; 4 - rubber plug; 5 - protective tape; 6 - cover from the side of the collector; 7 - armature shaft sleeve; 8 - brush; 9 - brush spring; 10 - brake disc cover; 11 - starter housing

After removing the traction relay, it is necessary to loosen the screw securing the clamping protective tape 5 (Figure 3.2) on the cover 6 from the side of the collector and remove the tape with the gasket. Unscrew the screws securing the brush terminals and stator winding leads to the brush holders, and remove the brushes 8.

Unscrew the nuts of the tie rods and disconnect the body 11 with cover 6 from the front cover with anchor. Unscrew the tie rods from the front cover and remove the rubber plug of the lever from it. Detach cover 6 from the housing.

After disassembling the starter, clean its internal surfaces from dust and dirt, check the technical condition of all components and parts and repair them, check and replace bearings, brush holders and brushes, clean or bore the collector, etc. It is forbidden to immerse starter parts in washing liquids (gasoline, diesel fuel, etc.).

When disassembling the starter, the parts are blown with compressed air and wiped with a rag soaked in gasoline. If necessary, the armature collector is bored on the machine, the bearings and their lubrication are replaced.

3.2 Defective parts of the starter

Starter defects: nicks and burrs on the covers seats; disruption of internal and external threads on individual parts of the starter; disruption of the slots of the heads of the screws for fastening the pole cores; scuff marks on the inner surface of the pole cores due to the iron of the armature touching them when the bearings are worn; damage to the insulation of the armature and excitation windings due to overheating or pollution; violation of insulation of insulated brush holders; wear of the anchor under the bearing bushings in the covers and the intermediate support; bushing wear; short circuit or break in the windings of the starter relay coils or oxidation of the contact bolts and disk; damage to the drive clutch (jamming or slipping of the rollers, cracks in one of the coupling halves, wear of the teeth or nicks of the gear ends, etc.); wear of the rollers, holes for the fingers of the drive lever.

The detection of individual parts of the starter is carried out by measuring worn surfaces with a universal (micrometer, caliper, ruler) or special (templates, gauges) measuring tool.

A break in the relay windings is detected using a control lamp. If there is no break, the lamp connected between the relay output and the housing should be on.

Without rewinding the relay coils, only a break at the junction of the holding winding output with the housing can be eliminated. To do this, this connection is soldered or the rivet fastening the wire to the body is upset.

Interturn short circuits of the starter relay windings are detected by measuring the resistance of the soaking and holding coils. If the measured resistances turn out to be less than the values ​​specified in the technical conditions, then there is an interturn short circuit. If there is a break in the windings in other places (usually in the connection of coils with terminals), then, just as with interturn short circuits, the starter relay is replaced with a serviceable one.

The condition of the contact bolts, the relay disc and the switch is assessed by inspection. Worn-out copper-graphite bushings of starter covers are replaced with new ones. Screws for fastening pole cores with torn slots are replaced with new ones.

The most common drive failure is a jammed or slipped freewheel. The clutch is checked for slippage by turning the drive gear relative to the splined bushing in the device using a torque lever. In this case, the gear should not turn in one direction (with a torque exceeding 2.5 times the rated torque of the starter at full braking), but in the other direction it should turn read freely. The drive, in which slippage or jamming of the freewheel clutch takes place, is disassembled, and all parts are defective. When disassembling, the clutch with the spring removed is clamped into the chuck of the lathe and the casing is expanded with a special cutter. The clutch cover can be flared in a vice using a specially sharpened chisel.

The insulation of the cover brush holders, armature windings and other parts is controlled by a light bulb that does not light up with normal insulation and lights up if it is broken.

3.3 Starter Recovery Methods

When repairing starters, perform the following operations:

The nicks and burrs on the seats of the body and covers are removed with a file;

Violation of the insulation of the brush holders is restored by replacing the rivets and the axis. New insulating bushings and gaskets are put on the new rivets and the axis of the brush holder lever, after which they are riveted and the heads are covered with a zaponlak or glyph-tale nitro enamel No. 1201;

Repair of the windings of the excitation coils and the armature is carried out by replacing the insulation. As insulation, cable paper, literoid with a thickness of 0.25 ... 0.4 mm and cotton tape are used.

For excitation coils: remove damaged insulation; strips of insulation are inserted between the turns; from above tightly wrapped with cotton tape; the output ends of the coils are connected to each other and soldered with POS-40 solder using rosin; repaired coils are impregnated with insulating varnish and dried in a drying cabinet; pole cores are inserted into the finished and tested coils and fixed in the housing with pole screws. At the armature winding: the ends of the wires are soldered from the collector; the soldered ends of the sections are knocked out of the collector plates with the help of a punch; remove the top layer of winding wires; before removing the lower layer of wires, they check whether the ends of the winding are soldered from the collector plates, after which they remove the wires; remove the winding wires from the grooves of the iron of the armature (the shape of the bending of the sections is kept); if the winding is deformed, then it is corrected on the plate with a wooden or copper hammer, checking the shape of the section bending according to the template; remove the old insulation from the grooves; instead of damaged end insulation, a new one is installed on glue or insulating varnish; a wire is laid in an insulated groove in such a way that the beginning of the section is located in the slot of the corresponding collector plate, taking into account the step in the grooves; between the upper and lower conductors in the groove, insulation is laid from electrically insulating cardboard (at the anchors of high-power starters, a cotton cord with a diameter of 3 mm); laying the lower ends of the sections into the slots of the collector plates; laying on conductors a collar made of thick paper; pressing into the slots of the collector plates of the upper ends of the sections; soldering the ends of the winding wires to the collector plates; winding insulation check; impregnation and drying of the anchor; turning the collector with subsequent grinding with a glass skin (permissible reduction in the diameter of the collector should not exceed the size specified in the technical conditions).

In the event that the collector plates have a short circuit to the body or their fastening on the bushing is loose, the collector is replaced with a new one.

If there is a curvature of the steel cover of the starters, they are corrected.

Cracks and spalls of cast iron and aluminum covers are eliminated by electric arc or gas welding. Worn bearing bushings are replaced with new ones. Before pressing, new bushings are dried at a temperature of 80 ... 120 ° C for 1 hour, after which they are kept in MS-14 aviation oil for 2 hours at a temperature of plus 180 ... 190 ° C. After pressing, the sleeve is reamed to the nominal or repair size of the armature shaft neck.

Worn necks of the armature shaft under the covers are repaired by grinding to the repair size.

Repair of a bushing with a freewheel clutch of a starter drive is carried out by replacing worn parts (rollers, roller pushers, springs, etc.) and cleaning nicks and burrs on the gear teeth. A steel casing is put on the assembled coupling, the drive is fixed in the chuck of the lathe and the casing is rolled by running in and with a roller. With a slight burn of the bolts and the disk at the switching relay, the contacting surfaces are cleaned. In case of a large burn, the contact bolts should be turned by 180 ° or replaced, and the contact disk turned over to the other side.

3.4 Assembly work

Assemble the starter in reverse order. In doing so, you should pay attention to the following. When assembling the coupling, it is necessary to strictly observe the sequence of alternating discs. The discs must be even and move freely on the splines of the drive cage and the driven bushing. When assembling, lightly lubricate all splines with the oil used for the engine, and fill the rolling bearings with CIATIM-201 grease.

All starter maintenance work related to its disassembly entails a violation of its sealing. Therefore, to ensure reliable sealing when assembling the starter, all sealing parts must be replaced with new ones.

The brushes must move freely in the brush holders without jamming and distortion; springs must press the brushes against the collector with a force corresponding to the given technical conditions; the allowable backlash of the armature shaft should be 0.8 ... 1.0 mm, and there should not be a radial backlash, palpable by hand; the starter drive clutch must move freely along the splines of the shaft and return to its original position; before assembly, it is necessary to lubricate the necks of the shaft and the rubbing parts of the drive; the gap between the gear and the thrust ring with the starter relay on and the backlash selected towards the armature collector must be within 2.5-0 "5 mm; the moment of switching on the main and additional circuits must be checked relay act.

3.5 Post-repair testing

Testing of starters is carried out on a control and test stand type 2214, E211, 532M in order to check the characteristics of idling and full braking in accordance with the technical conditions. The deviation of the torque from the norm to a smaller side, and the current strength to a larger one indicates defects in the starter windings or its incorrect assembly. Low torque and current consumption indicate a bad starter supply contact. If the voltage at the starter clamps is within normal limits, then the fault should be sought in the starter itself.

The assembled starter is checked on the engine by turning it on to crank crankshaft.

3.6 Organization of the workplace of a car repairman

The workplace is a unit of the enterprise structure, where the performers of the work, technological equipment, part of the conveyor, equipment and objects of labor are located. This is the primary and main link of production. Proper organization of the workplace involves a clear definition of the scope and nature of the work performed on it, the necessary equipment, rational layout, systematic maintenance, favorable and safe working conditions.

A passport is drawn up for each workplace, which indicates: the content of the work performed, the annual task in man-hours, the mode and conditions of work, the layout, equipment and procedure for servicing the workplace, and the procedure for placing processed products on it.

The workplace is equipped according to the approved technical documentation for the performance of work. It includes organizational and technological equipment.

Technological equipment includes equipment and fixtures, measuring, cutting, mounting and auxiliary tools, as well as technical documentation. Means of technological equipment at the workplace should be placed in a certain, convenient order for work in order to eliminate the loss of time searching and shifting from place to place.

The safety requirements for maintenance and repair mainly consist in the proper organization of the workplace, equipping it with the necessary devices and tools to ensure safe work.

Use only serviceable tools and devices, use them only for their intended purpose.

Perform safety precautions when working with starter testers.

Do not place tools on equipment or on guardrails.

At the end of the work, it is necessary to carefully clean the workplace, put the tools, fixtures and parts in the appropriate places.

4. Labor protection

In Russia, there is a state system of labor safety standards that establishes general requirements for the safety of work (GOST 12.3.017 - 85), which are carried out at motor transport enterprises, maintenance stations and specialized centers for all types of maintenance and current repairs of vehicles.

All persons entering work undergo an introductory briefing on safety and industrial sanitation, which is the first stage of safety training at this enterprise.

The second stage of training is a briefing at the workplace, carried out with the aim of assimilating the worker with safe working methods directly in the specialty and at the workplace where he should work.

1. During the maintenance and repair of vehicles, it is necessary to take measures against their independent movement.

3. Handling equipment must be in good condition and used only for its intended purpose. This equipment must only be operated by persons who have been properly trained and instructed.

4. During operation, it is forbidden to leave tools on the edge of the inspection ditch, on the steps, hood or fenders of the car.

5. During assembly work, the coincidence of the holes in the parts to be joined must be checked with special crowbars, barbs or mounting hooks.

7. During disassembly and assembly of components and assemblies, special pullers and keys must be used. Hard-to-remove nuts should first be moistened with kerosene, and then unscrewed with a wrench; it is forbidden to unscrew the nuts with a chisel or hammer.

8. It is forbidden to clutter up the passages between workplaces, parts and assemblies, as well as to accumulate a large number of parts at the disassembly sites.

9. Hydraulic and pneumatic devices must be equipped with safety valves.

10. The working tool must be in good condition.

The main causes of fires at motor transport enterprises are: malfunction of heating devices, electrical equipment and lighting, their improper operation; spontaneous combustion of fuels and lubricants and cleaning materials if they are stored improperly; careless handling of fire.

In all industrial premises, the following fire safety requirements must be met:

Smoking only in specially designated areas;

Do not use open fire;

Store fuel and kerosene in quantities not exceeding the shift requirement;

Do not store empty containers from fuel and lubricants;

Conduct a thorough cleaning at the end of each shift;

Clean up spilled oil and fuel with sand;

Collect used cleaning materials, put them in metal boxes with lids and, after the end of the shift, take them out to a place specially designated for this.

In order not to create conditions for a fire in industrial premises and on a car, it is prohibited:

Allow fuel and oil to come into contact with the engine and workplace;

Leave cleaning materials in the cab, on the engine and workplaces;

Allow leaks in fuel lines, tanks and devices of the power system;

Keep the necks of fuel tanks and vessels with flammable liquids open;

Wash or wipe the body, parts and assemblies with gasoline, wash hands and clothes with gasoline;

Store fuel (with the exception of a car in the fuel tank) and containers from fuel and lubricants;

Use open fire when troubleshooting;

Warm up the engine with an open flame.

In conspicuous places near telephones, signs should be posted indicating the telephone numbers of fire brigades, a plan for the evacuation of people, vehicles and equipment in case of fire, and the names of persons responsible for fire safety.

Fire hydrants in all rooms are equipped with sleeves and trunks enclosed in special cabinets. Foam fire extinguishers are installed in the premises (one fire extinguisher per 50 m2 of the area of ​​the room) and boxes with dry sand (one box per 100 m2 of the area of ​​the room). A shovel, crowbar, hook, ax, fire bucket should be located near the box with sand on the fire stand.

Conclusion

The motor transport enterprise is a complex modern production, which employs highly qualified workers, technicians and engineers.

Currently, there is an intensive improvement of designs Vehicle, increasing their reliability and performance, reducing operating costs, improving all types of safety. All this makes it necessary to improve the level of training of qualified workers in the specialty "Automobile Repair Mechanic".

When writing the work, the most common causes of malfunctions and ways to eliminate them were considered. Each of these reasons is directly related to the reliability of the car in operation and traffic safety. But it may happen that any malfunction not noticed in a timely manner and, therefore, not eliminated, will lead to serious consequences.

During operation, the starter requires periodic inspection and maintenance.

In order to ensure reliability and trouble-free operation, the starter is cleaned of dirt and oil, its mounting on the engine, the condition and fastening of the wire lugs on the starter terminals and in the power circuit are checked.

At least once a year, the starter is removed from the engine, the cover is removed and the condition of the collector and brushes is checked, blown with compressed air, if necessary, the collector is cleaned and the brushes are replaced. The working surface of the collector must be smooth and not have significant burning, it is recommended to wipe it with a clean cloth soaked in gasoline. If the dirt or traces of burning cannot be eliminated, then the collector should be cleaned with fine sandpaper.

The starter is dismantled every 100,000 km of the car and during repairs, if necessary.

Conclusions on improving maintenance and repair on this topic.

To simplify the work of checking the starter, it is checked on the stand, which significantly increases the confidence in the accuracy of the check and reduces the time spent.

If there is any doubt about the efficiency of the starter, it is necessary to check it on the stand. Connecting wires to the current source, ammeter and contact bolt of the starter traction relay must have a cross section of at least 16 mm.

The temperature of the starter during checks should be (25 ± 5) ° С, and the brushes should be well ground to the collector.

To simplify repairs and other operations, pneumatic and electric tools are used instead of conventional ones.

Currently, there is an intensive improvement in the design of starters, increasing their reliability and performance. More frequent updating of produced models is being carried out, giving them higher consumer qualities that meet modern requirements. All this makes it necessary to improve the professional level of auto mechanics. He must have an idea about state of the art and trends in the development of both the automotive industry as a whole and individual car models, be able to assess the technical condition in order to reliably carry out maintenance and repair of cars. The life and safety of not only the owner of the car, but also those around him depends on how reliably the car is serviced. The profession of an auto mechanic is interesting, responsible, and in demand.

During the writing of the written examination paper, scientific and practical knowledge in the field of operation and repair of the starter was systematized. In this paper, solutions were considered for certain problems that arise during the operation and repair of a starter, changing the design of unreliable components and elements, using alternative types of new materials, developing new testing and adjustment methods in order to obtain improved characteristics in terms of reliability, durability and economy. .

In the course of writing a written examination paper, the basics of ensuring the efficiency of the starter were considered; the starter device was studied; got acquainted with the list of work performed in the scope of maintenance for the starter, with the main safety standards; with the organization of diagnostic and adjustment work, methods and methods for restoring the starter's performance were considered. As a result, it is possible to quickly adapt to work in the specialty.

Also, measures were developed to improve the quality of services, proposals were developed to improve the quality of services, practical skills were acquired in planning, organizing production and labor, and the knowledge gained in the learning process was consolidated and deepened.

List of sources used

1. Borovskikh Yu.I. Device, maintenance and repair of cars: Textbook / Yu.I. Borovskikh, Yu.V. Buralev, K.A. Morozov, V.M. Nikiforov, A.I. Feshenko. - M .: Higher school; Publishing Center "Academy", 1997. - 528 p.

2. Epifanov L.I., Epifanova E.A. Maintenance and repair of automobiles. - 2nd ed., revised. and add. – Moscow, 2009

3. Kalisekim V.S., Manzon A.I., Nachuma G.E. Textbook for the driver of a car of category “C”: textbook / Kalisekim V.S., Manzon A.I., Nachuma G.E. - Krasnodar: Press, 2008

4. Karagodin V.I., Shestopalov SK. Car mechanic: A practical guide. - 2nd ed., revised. and additional - M.: Higher school, 1990.

5. Kartashov V.P. Technical design of ATP. - Moscow: Transport, 1997

6. Masin M.A., Zvyagin A.A. VAZ cars: wear and repair.

7. Yu.M. Kuznetsov. Occupational safety at motor transport enterprises. - M.: Transport, 1990

8. Kuznetsov E.S. Technical operation of cars: Textbook for universities / E. S. Kuznetsov, V. P. Voronov, A. P. Boldin and others; ed. E. S. Kuznetsova. - 3rd ed., revised. and additional - M.: Transport, 1991. - 413 p.

9. Rogovtsev V.L. Device and operation of vehicles: textbook / Rogovtsev V.L., Puzankov A.G., Olfilyev V.D. - M.: Transport, 1989. - 432 p.

10. Rumyantsev S.I. and others. Maintenance and repair of cars: a textbook for vocational schools / Rumyantsev S. I., Sinelnikov A. F., Shtol Yu. L., - M .: Mashinostroenie, 1989. - 272 p.

And initially the car was born without a starter - the engines were started by the crank, and this was considered the norm. Actually, the cars of the dawn of motorization had other, more pressing problems, against which the rotation of the handle before the trip was not the most significant. However, the heavy and unsafe manual start of the motor was still an obvious bottleneck in the first self-running carts, and in 1911 the American mechanical engineer Charles Kettering proposed the design of an electric starter. And already in 1912, the first car started by Kettering's invention, the Cadillac Model 30, was produced.

1 / 4

2 / 4

3 / 4

4 / 4

However, despite this, the technical revolution did not happen - which can be traced at least by the famous Ford T, which, produced in millions of copies, was wound up by a pen until 1919 ... Actually, the reason was to a large extent that Charles Kettering, crowned as the inventor of the starter, proposed to Cadillac a completely different design that is used everywhere today!

Its design was complex and unreliable, since the starter, after starting the engine, did not disconnect from the crankshaft, but switched to generator mode, and the leading American automakers of that era were cool about the idea. The reason for Cadillac's support of Kettering's invention lay in the personality of the founder of the company, Henry Leland, whose close friend in 1910 was seriously injured by a reverse jerk of the crank with too early ignition and died as a result ...

The technical mini-revolution in the automotive industry, thanks to the starter, nevertheless happened - but four years later, in 1916. Namely, when another American engineer, Vincent Hugo Bendix, proposed dividing the generator and starter into two separate units, and connecting the latter to the engine only for a short time - using an overrunning clutch, known to this day as “bendix”.

Starter design

All car starters are very similar to each other. Understood the device of any - consider, you will understand all. Though Matiz, even Kamaz ...

The basis of any starter is the simplest electric motor. The current is supplied to the rotor (aka “anchor”) by powerful copper-graphite brushes, and the magnetic force of the stator is provided either by electromagnets or permanent magnets. Electrical circuits most modern starters do not have fundamental differences - all starters are connected to the car's electrical system at three points - power plus from the battery, ground through the body, and control plus from the ignition switch. In fact, only the power expressed in dimensions differs.

A smaller “barrel” stands out on the cylindrical body of the starter - this is the so-called “retractor relay”. It performs two functions - in fact, it supplies power to the starter, having the most powerful contacts that can withstand currents of hundreds of amperes, and also engages the starter shaft with the engine shaft through the “rocker” lever and the “bendix” overrunning clutch.

This clutch works on the principle of a classic bicycle hub - that is, the starter can turn the motor, but the already started motor will not “drag” the starter along with it, spinning at high speeds that are detrimental to it.

Visual 3D animation of the starter design

More noticeable differences from one starter model to another are the design of the front rotor support. The classic device is when the rotor axis is installed in the starter on two bearings - support bushings made of bronze-graphite alloy. These bushings are located, respectively, in the front and rear covers of the starter.

In principle, this “two-support” design is the most reliable and correct. But often there are “single-support” starters (in garage jargon they are often not very correctly called unsupported), in which the rear support of the rotor shaft is, as expected, in the rear cover of the starter, but the front cover is completely absent.

In this case, the engine clutch housing or gearbox housing, where the support sleeve is pressed, becomes the front support. The starter is installed in its place in the car - and the shaft rests on two bushings, as it should. As a rule, such a solution is used to reduce the dimensions of the nodes, and in principle, as long as everything is in order, it is no worse than the classic one. But if the front support sleeve in the gearbox housing breaks, it is already much more difficult to replace it - this is done by car and sometimes in very uncomfortable conditions. Whereas in a two-bearing starter, the bushings are changed on a workbench, where everything is in sight and easily accessible.

Another fundamental design point that distinguishes starter models from each other is the gearbox. Or rather, its absence or presence, and in case of presence - type. The fact is that the transmission of torque from the starter rotor to the motor flywheel can be carried out directly or through a gearbox built into the starter.

The “direct” option is when the “bendix” gear that rotates the engine flywheel ring is located directly on the axis of the starter rotor. Such a design is quite archaic, characterized by excessive dimensions and weight, as well as a huge current consumption, but still occurs. Much more efficient, lighter and more compact geared starters. In them, the moment is transmitted to the flywheel crown either through one intermediate gear or through a planetary gear with even greater deceleration.

"Planetary" starters are the most common today. With them, a battery is enough to start the engine, almost half the capacity and starting current than required for the same motor with a starter working directly.

Starter repair example

From theory, let's move on to a real unit that needs repair. In our case, the symptoms of the malfunction were as follows - the starter began to rotate the motor very sluggishly, regardless of the state of charge of the battery. At the same time, being dismantled from the engine and connected by starting wires to the battery, it rotated briskly. The debugged motor at the very least managed to start even with such a sluggish rotation, but at some point the starter got up completely and emitted smoke ...

After removing the back cover from the starter housing, a couple of tablespoons of black dust spilled out. So, the first diagnosis is brushes. We remove the brush assembly, remove the housing with magnets (which auto electricians call among themselves a “bulb”), and take out the rotor.

After blowing all the parts with compressed air and washing in gasoline, it became clear that the brushes were worn out almost completely, and their remains were almost short-circuited by graphite powder. The force of the springs pressing the remnants of the brushes weakened, the contact resistance increased, the brush holders and springs heated up until they turned blue, melted, the coils closed and the brushes hung.

1 / 2

2 / 2

We pick up the brush assembly, as a sample, and go to the nearest starter and alternator repair office, where we ask you to pick up a similar part. The brush assembly costs us 400 rubles, which, with the cost of a new starter from 4 to 5 thousand, is quite inexpensive!

We clean the rotor and evaluate the condition of the collector - the slip ring on which the brushes work. Wear is visible to the naked eye (shown by arrows in the photo), but the collector is still able to work after replacing the brushes. We do without a groove, cleaning it with fine sandpaper - this is enough.

In general, wear of the rotor commutator is a serious problem. In principle, under normal conditions, the collector of any starter is able to change a pair of sets of brushes, but if its contact lamellas are very thin, the rotor goes to waste. This part is expensive, it’s not easy to buy it separately, and it’s rational to change it, except for a freebie - if you turn up a similar starter with a live rotor from old auto-junk stocks from yourself or from friends ... For with a completely dead collector, there is usually no living place on the starter.

We examine the overrunning clutch, otherwise - "Bendix" (the name, by the way, comes from the manufacturer Bendix). We rotate its gear manually. It spins in one direction, not in the other. We move back and forth along the axis of the shaft - it walks easily, without jamming. In our case, everything is ok with the “bendix”, as it should be.

Meanwhile, the failure of the overrunning clutch is also a serious malfunction, since it is easy to buy the necessary modification only for starters of common models - problems may arise with the search for a "bendix" ... The main typical cause of a clutch failure is the wear of the springs and rollers inside it, due to which it slips without blocking when rotating in the working direction. As a result, the starter buzzes and spins, and the crankshaft stops. This malfunction is easily diagnosed - the “bendix” turns manually in both directions, while it should rotate in only one direction. In a good way, the overrunning clutch in this case must be replaced, since it has a non-separable design. Although some enthusiasts flare its body, stretch the “trampled” springs, cut new rollers from hardened bars, but the result of this fuss is most often short-lived.

Since the rotor is removed, we simultaneously evaluate the condition of the planetary gearbox. We take out the gears, wash with gasoline, inspect. Everything is in order, there are no complaints about the gearbox. We apply a light layer of SHRUS grease to the gears and their bearings.

Note that the gearbox is a fairly reliable starter assembly. It happens that the axis of the satellite gears is cut off or the external gear ring bursts - but this happens rarely and most often due to the initial defects of the metal or its processing, and not due to the loads during everyday work. For example, in starter planetary gearboxes, the outer gear ring, called the “crown”, is often made of plastic and is quite durable (in our case, as can be seen in the photo below, the “crown” is metal).

Ideally, as a gearbox lubricant, special compounds for planetary gears or special low-temperature grease compounds are required, but they are not cheap and rare - it is not rational to buy them for one-time work, where you will need one gram of the entire expensive tube. Therefore, it is quite acceptable to use a common CV joint grease or a good imported grease for hub bearings. The main thing is to apply it in a very small amount - you do not need to fill the gearbox! The abundance of lithol, which thickens strongly in the cold, squeezes between the teeth of the gears, causes an excessive current surge and even threatens to break the plastic “crown” ...

Now there is more work to be done. It would be unwise not to assess the condition of the solenoid relay contacts once the starter has been removed and gutted. But if to disassemble the starter we only needed keys for 8, 10, and a Phillips screwdriver, then only a 100-watt soldering iron can open the traction relay. Wires come out of the relay, pass through the contact caps in the cover, and are soldered from the outside. Therefore, after unscrewing the two cross screws of the cover, it will be possible to lift it, only by heating the solder in turn on the two contacts shown in the photo by arrows. In fact, this is a simple procedure, and it can be done several times if necessary.

We are lucky - contacts are in order. We slightly refresh them by poking with a lump of sandpaper sandwiched in the "platypuses". After that, we alternately heat the caps on the lid with a soldering iron, and sharply slam the lid on the table - by inertia, the remnants of molten solder fly out of the caps, the holes are released, and now the lid can be put back on the protruding wires and soldered back.

By the way, a serious mistake of car owners who carry out repairs and preventive maintenance of the starter with their own hands is lubricating the core of the retractor relay. In this assembly, lubrication is not needed at all - at most, you can lightly smear the core and its socket with engine oil and wipe it almost dry - purely to reduce the likelihood of corrosion. And any grease in this assembly is contraindicated - in the cold, even the best and cold-resistant of them can jam the core. The gap of the solenoid relay must be clean and dry!

We assemble the starter in the reverse order, not forgetting to lubricate (also without fanaticism!) The rear rotor bushing. Can the unit be installed in a car? You can, but let's do one more thing first!

The fact is that in the newly acquired brush assembly, the brushes are even parallelepipeds. And the collector is cylindrical, and even acquired from wear the shape of a not quite regular cylinder. And, in a good way, the working edges of the brushes should have semicircular selections to increase the contact area, plus they should get used to the real profile of the collector.

Therefore, so that the first starter turns on the engine do not generate excessive heating of the collector and brushes due to the passage of a large current through a reduced contact patch, we will carry out a light grinding. Let's take the wires for “lighting up”, and with their help we will connect the starter lying on the table to the battery, and spin it for a minute or two idly with interruptions.

Now, that's all. We put the starter on the engine and enjoy a quick and confident start.

Have you ever dealt with a starter repair?

Main technical data

Rated voltage, V		12
Rated power (with 75 Ah battery), kW		1,65
Idle mode at a voltage of 12 V: consumed current no more, A
anchor speed, min -1		5000
Full braking mode:
consumed current no more, A		520
braking torque, N m (kgf m)		15,7(1,6)
voltage at the starter terminals, not more than, V		7
Switch-on voltage of the relay when the drive gear rests on a 15 mm spacer placed between the gear and the stop on the shaft No more than		8

Device and work

The starter device is shown in Fig.67. The main components of the starter:

Housing in which excitation coils with poles are mounted;

Cover on the drive side, in which the drive lever is installed;

Cover on the side of the collector, in which a traverse with brush holders is attached;

Drive, consisting of a drive gear and a freewheel roller clutch;

An anchor consisting of a shaft and a package of iron and a collector pressed onto it. The package consists of a set of plates with 29 semi-closed grooves around the circumference. Winding sections made of copper wire are placed in the grooves of the package. The ends of the sections are soldered to the collector plates in the prescribed sequence. The armature shaft has involute splines along which the starter drive moves.

The anchor in the starter has three supports: in the covers on the collector and drive side and in the intermediate bearing;

The traction relay consists of a coil, a yoke, an armature, a rod with a contact plate and a cover with contact bolts. The coil has two windings, retracting (serial) and holding (shunt).

Rice. 67. Starter

1 - cap; 2 - lock washer; 3 - nut; 4 - axis of the lever; 5 - screws; 6 - output bolt; 7 - nut; 8 - output; 9 - relay cover; 10 - traction relay; 11 - lever; 12 - screws; 13 - tie rod: 14 - nut; 15 - screws; 16 - thrust ring; 17 - lock ring; 18 - drive; 19 - cover on the drive side; 20 - body; 21 - anchor; 22 - cover from the side of the collector; 23 - traverse.

The starter operates as follows: when the ignition switch key is turned clockwise to the start position (non-fixed position), the electrical circuit of the additional RS-507B relay is switched on, through the contacts of which the current flows from the battery to the traction relay. The armature of the traction relay is pulled in under the influence of the electromagnetic field of the two windings. The movement through the rod and the lever is transmitted to the starter drive. The drive moves along the splines of the armature shaft, and the drive gear engages with the crown of the engine flywheel. At the end of the armature stroke of the traction relay, the contact plate closes the main contacts, including the starter in the battery power circuit, while simultaneously disconnecting the solenoid winding of the relay.

The starter armature begins to rotate, scrolling the crankshaft of the engine. After starting the engine, when the key of the ignition switch is released, which, when turned under the action of a spring, disconnects the additional relay RS-507B from the power circuit, and with it the windings of the traction relay.

Under the action of the return spring of the traction relay, the armature of the relay moves to its original position and, by means of a lever, disengages the drive gear from the engine flywheel crown.

Operating rules

1. The duration of continuous operation of the starter when starting the engine should not exceed 10 seconds.

2. If the engine does not start after the first attempt, continue the next attempt to start the engine no earlier than after 15-20 seconds.

Maintenance

After running in the car, tighten the starter mount and wires.

At every second maintenance (TO-2):

Check the tightening and, if necessary, tighten the bolts securing the starter to the engine, clean from dirt;

Check the cleanliness of the tips of the starter and battery terminals and the reliability of their fastening.

At the next maintenance, every 96-100 thousand kilometers, additionally do:

Remove starter;

Clean from dust, dirt and oil;

Disassemble the starter;

Check the condition of the commutator, brushes, brush holders and movement of the brushes in the brush holders. The brushes should move freely without binding.

Replace the brushes with new ones if they are worn to a height of less than 6 mm;

In case of contamination or slight burning, the collector should be cleaned with fine sandpaper, grit 80 or 100.

With a significant roughness of the collector and the protrusion of insulation between the collector plates, it should be machined on a lathe and blown with compressed air;

Check the condition of the drive gear and the engine flywheel ring.

In the presence of wear and nicks on the teeth of the gear and the flywheel crown, it is necessary to fill the nicks of the damaged teeth. If it is impossible to eliminate the defect, the drive and the flywheel ring should be replaced;

Check the condition of the contacts of the electromagnetic relay. Burnt contacts should be cleaned with sandpaper or a flat velvet file so as to ensure contact over the entire surface with the contact disk. If the contact bolts in contact with the contact disk have a lot of wear, they should be turned 180°.

Lubricate with GOI-54 grease in accordance with GOST 3276-74 or LITOL-24 GOST 21150-73 splines of the shaft or drive guide sleeve, drive ring and lever axis. Bearings and necks of the armature shaft - industrial oil I-50A GOST 20799-75 or engine oil M8V1 GOST 10541-78;

Assemble the starter and check the technical condition.

Possible malfunctions and methods for their elimination

Malfunctions and its symptoms	Probable Cause	Remedy
1. When the starter is turned on, the traction relay does not work (lack of a characteristic click).
	b) loosening of fastening or oxidation of the tips of the battery wires;	Clean, tighten the fastening of the wire lugs and lubricate with technical vaseline.
	c) loosening of the connections of the outputs of the relay coils;	Tighten the fastening screws or solder the leads of the coil windings.
	d) breakage of the coil windings inside the yoke;	Replace relay.
	e) malfunction of the additional relay or electrical circuits.	Troubleshoot
2. When the starter is turned on, repeated clicks of the traction relay and blows of the drive gear on the engine flywheel ring are heard.	a) lack of reliable contact in the starter power circuit;	Restore the reliability of connections with the battery.
	b) the battery is discharged or defective;	Charge or replace the battery.
	c) breakage of the holding winding of the traction relay.	Replace starter relay.
3. When the starter is turned on, a rattle of the drive gear is heard, which does not engage with the engine flywheel crown.	a) nicks on the teeth of the flywheel crown;	Eliminate nicks.
	b) violation of the adjustment of the drive gear stroke;	Adjust.
	c) installation of a starter with a warp.	Correctly install the starter.
4. When the starter is turned on, the traction relay is activated, but the starter does not crank the engine or rotates it very slowly.	a) Discharged or defective battery;	Charge or replace the battery.
	b) lack of reliable contact in the starter power circuit;	Clean and restore the reliability of contact of all terminal connections.
	c) touching the starter armature by the poles;	Have the starter repaired in a workshop or replaced.
	d) poor contact of the brushes with the collector;	Clean the contaminated collector with glass wool, grit 5 ... 12 and blow with compressed air. In case of large burning or high wear, grind or clean the collector with glass sandpaper. After turning, the runout of the collector relative to the outer journals of the armature shaft should be no more than 0.05 mm according to the indicator. Check the force of the springs on the brushes with a dynamometer.
	e) short circuit in the starter windings.	Take the starter to a workshop for repair.
5. After starting the engine, the starter drive disengages and the armature continues to rotate.	Welded contacts of the traction relay.	Switch off the ignition, disconnect the battery. Turn the contact bolts of the traction relay by 180°, and the contact disc - the other way.
6. When the starter is turned on, the drive does not engage.	Slippage of the freewheel roller clutch.	Replace drive.
7. After starting the engine, the starter armature jammed.	Breaking the starter armature.	Remove the starter from the engine and repair it in a workshop with the replacement of the armature or replace the starter.

Disassembly order

Before disassembly, clean the starter from dirt and check it on the stand. Disassemble the starter (Fig. 67) in the following order:

Unscrew nut 7 and disconnect outlet 8 from outlet bolt 6;

Unscrew the screw 5 fastening the traction relay to the cover on the drive side and remove the relay;

Loosen nuts 14 on tie rods 13;

Unscrew two screws 15 and remove cap 1;

Remove lock washer 2;

Remove the cover from the manifold side 22;

Remove the brushes from the brush holders and remove the traverse 23;

Remove housing 20;

Unscrew the nut 3, which secures the axis of the lever 4;

Unscrew the lever axle and remove the lever 11;

Remove the anchor 21 with the drive assembly from the cover on the drive side 19;

Push back the thrust ring 16, remove the lock ring 17 from the shaft, and then the drive 18;

To inspect the contacts of the traction relay, unscrew two screws 13;

Unsolder the two leads and remove the relay cover 9.

Inspection and control of parts

Frame . Using the E-236 device or a test lamp, check the absence of a short circuit in the excitation coils to the housing. To do this, it is necessary to connect a control lamp, connected to an alternating current circuit of 220 V, to the housing and the terminal located on the housing (Fig. 68). If the lamp burns at the same time, then the insulation of the excitation coils is damaged.

Fig.68. Checking the starter excitation coils for a short circuit with the housing

In this case, it is necessary to number the poles of the coils, unscrew the screws securing the poles on a special device (Fig. 69) and remove the excitation windings. Repair damaged places of insulation with insulating tape. After that, put the poles and coils in place. Lock the pole screws.

Fig.69. Unscrewing the screws securing the starter poles

Collector side cover. Using the E-236 device or a test lamp, check that the insulated brush holders are not shorted to the housing (Fig. 70). In the event of a short circuit, the insulating gasket and the bushing of the brush holder rivets must be replaced.

Wiggling of the brush holders is not allowed. Brushes in brush holders should move freely, without jamming. Replace the cover sleeve on the manifold side if it is worn. The hole diameter of the new bushing after pressing and reaming should be 12.5 +0.035 mm with a finish of Ra2.5. Brushes worn to a height of 5 mm should be replaced.

To check the brush springs, it is necessary to put the cover on the armature shaft. Reinstall the brushes and check the spring force with a dynamometer. The force should be in the range of 0.85-1.4 daN (0.85-1.4 kgf) at the moment of separation of the spring from the brush. The ends of the brush springs should press the middle of the brush.

drive side cover. In the cover on the drive side, check the condition of the bushing (bearing); if necessary, install a new bushing in the cover, the hole diameter of which after pressing should be within 12.5 + 0.035 mm with a finish of Ra2.5.

Fig.70. Checking the insulated starter brush holders for a short to the housing

Fig.71. Checking the starter armature winding for a short circuit with a magnetic circuit

Anchor. Using the E-236 device or a test lamp, check that the armature winding is not shorted to the armature package. To do this, connect one end to any of the anchor lamellas, and the other to the anchor iron package. The lamp should not burn at the same time (Fig. 71).

Carefully inspect the anchor. The frontal part of the armature winding should be smaller in diameter than the iron package. The increased diameter of the frontal part of the winding indicates the "spacing" of the winding. This anchor needs to be replaced. The ends of the winding wires must be securely soldered to the collector tabs.

Check the armature on the E-236 device for the absence of interturn short circuits. If a short circuit is found, replace the armature.

The armature collector must be clean. In case of significant roughness of the collector or protrusion of the insulation, it must be machined on a lathe. After grooving, grind the collector with glass sandpaper, grit 100 to a purity of Ra1.25.

The runout of the collector relative to the pins of the shaft should not exceed 0.05 mm. The runout of the anchor iron package relative to the shaft trunnions should not exceed 0.25 mm. At the same time, check that there is no deflection of the shaft, since deflection may cause the drive to seize on the splined part of the shaft. If on the armature shaft, in the place where the starter gear rotates, there is a yellow coating from the bearing, then remove it with a fine sandpaper. The presence of yellow plaque often leads to seizing of the gear on the shaft after starting the engine and "spreading" of the armature winding.

Drive unit. The starter drive is inspected from the outside and checked for slippage. The drive must move freely, without jamming, along the splines of the shaft. If the bushings (bearings) of the drive are heavily worn, they must be replaced. The hole diameter of new bushings after pressing and reaming should be within 14 + 0.06 mm with a hole surface finish of Ra2.5.

When holding the armature, the gear should rotate freely clockwise. Counterclockwise, the gear must rotate only with the armature. Checking the freewheel for slippage is carried out when testing the starter for full braking on the stand.

Traction relay. The serviceability of the retracting and holding windings must be checked with an ohmmeter or measure the resistance with a voltmeter and ammeter.

The resistance of the retracting winding should be 0.28 ± 0.03 Ohm, and the holding winding - 1.01 ± 0.075 Ohm. If the windings are defective, replace the traction relay. The terminal bolts must be cleaned, and if they are severely burnt out, turn them 180 ° around their axis. In case of severe wear of the contact disk, turn it with the unworn side to the contacts.

The armature of the traction relay in the housing must move freely,

After checking and replacing all worn or damaged parts, the starter can be assembled.

Assembly

The starter is assembled in the reverse order of disassembly, but the following must be taken into account:

Before assembly, it is necessary to lubricate the bearings, trunnions and the splined part of the shaft with engine oil;

If the anchor spring ring is deformed, it must be replaced with a new one or straightened;

Thrust washer 13 is put on the armature shaft from the drive side;

Adjusting washers are installed on the shaft from the collector side;

When the tightening screws are finished, it is necessary to align the pins and grooves on the covers and the body;

Check the value of the axial play of the armature, which should be approximately 1 mm.

After assembly, check the operation of the starter on the stand. When the starter is turned on, the drive must move on the splined part of the shaft without jamming and return to its original position under the action of the return spring. When turning the gear by hand clockwise, the anchor should not budge; in reverse rotation, the gear must rotate with the shaft.

If necessary, check and adjust the starter.

Installing the gear in the off position should be no more than 21.5 mm (dimension A, Fig. 72) from the mating plane of the starter flange.

Fig.72. Measuring the position of the drive gear in the off state: dimension A - no more than 21.5 mm.

Fig.73. Starter switch adjustment test circuit

Check the full reach of the gear when the traction relay is on. To do this, turn on the traction relay, as shown in Fig. 73. The distance between the end of the gear and the stop should be 1.5 ± 1 mm (Fig. 74). This gap is adjusted by turning the eccentric axis 11 (Fig. 67) of the drive lever. After adjustment, tighten the axle nut while holding the axle from turning.

Fig.74. Measuring the gap from the end face of the gear to the cup of the thrust ring with the armature of the traction relay fully retracted

Fig.75. Switching circuit when testing a starter

1 - lever; 2 - dynamometer; 3 -stator; 4 - starter traction relay; 5 - switch; 6 - voltmeter; 7 - current indicator; 8 - current indicator shunt; 9 - battery.

Control check

The serviceability of the starter, the correctness of its assembly and adjustment is determined by:

1. Checking the starter adjustment.

2. Checking the starter at idle.

3. Checking the starter at full braking.

To check the starter, you need: a low-voltage unit (or a well-charged battery), a DC voltmeter with a scale of 0 to 30 V, a DC indicator with a shunt up to 1000 A, a tachometer with a scale of up to 10,000 min -1 and a dynamometer.

The starter switching circuit is shown in Fig. 75. If there is no special control and test bench model 532M, then the starter is clamped in a vice and connected to the battery (the starter clamp is connected through the current indicator to the positive, and the starter housing to the negative battery terminal). To connect the starter to the battery, wires with a cross section of at least 25-35 mm 2 are used. The current strength and the number of revolutions of the armature during the test at idle are measured no more than 30 s after the starter is turned on.

The starter is considered to have passed the test if, at a voltage of 12 V, it consumes a current of not more than 75 A and develops at least 5000 min -1.

With tight rotation of the armature, which is usually caused by distortions as a result of improper assembly of the starter or touching the armature by the poles or a short circuit between the turns, the starter consumes a large current, and the revolutions develop less than indicated. A low current draw and a reduced number of revolutions at normal voltage at the starter terminals indicate poor contact in the wire connections or reduced brush spring tension.

To check the starter at full braking, a lever connected to a dynamometer is fixed on the drive gear. It is better to use a hydraulic dynamometer. The braking torque M of the starter is determined by the product of the length L of the lever in meters and the readings of the dynamometer (scales) P in kilograms:

To avoid overheating of the starter, the test is carried out for a short time. If the armature rotates when the gear is locked, then the drive should be changed.

Note. When carrying out this check, care should be taken, since at the moment the starter is turned on, a strong jerk of the lever mounted on the gear will occur.

A serviceable starter, when powered from a fully charged battery, consumes a current of not more than 520 A at a voltage of at least 8 V and develops a torque of approximately 15.7 N m (1.6 kgf m). If the current consumption is higher than 520 A, and the braking torque is lower than 15.7 N m (1.6 kgf m), then this indicates a malfunction of the armature winding or field winding. If the magnitude of the braking torque and the strength of the current consumed are below normal, then this, with normal voltage at the starter terminals, indicates poor contacts inside the starter or a weak tension in the brush springs. Low voltage at the starter terminals (less than 8.0 volts) indicates poor wire connections or a bad battery.